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You are here: Home / Adventures Around the World / The Eccentric Garifuna of Livingston Guatemala and Hike to Los Siete Altares

The Eccentric Garifuna of Livingston Guatemala and Hike to Los Siete Altares

February 26, 2014 By John Widmer 9 Comments

Livingston, Guatemala lies on the country’s Caribbean coast and although it is not an island, it is only reachable by boat. No roads connect it with the mainland, giving it an island flair. We took a lancha a few hours down the beautiful Rio Dulce to get there.

Rio Dulce lancha Guatemala

One thing that makes Livingston unique is its rich Garifuna culture. Many of Livingston’s inhabitants are Garifuna, which are decedents of wrecked slave ships centuries ago. While the African descendents mixed with the indigenous Carib people, they very much kept their African traditions over the centuries. Upon getting off our boat one of the touts proclaimed

Welcome to Af-ri-ca!

And this place truly did have an African feel to it. Garifunas have their own cuisine too and tapado, a seafood stew, is said to be their standout dish. We had to try it our first night in town. It was delicious and chock full of all sorts of seafood.

Garafuni Tapado in Livingston Guatemala

Livingston Guatemala

Roaming Around Livingston Guatemala

During our first full day in Livingston we had no agenda so decided to take a hike towards some swimming holes and waterfalls known as the Los Siete Altares (The Seven Alters). We had heard you simply follow the beach to get there but we instead made our own route, wanting to explore the somewhat rough Garifuna villages throughout the area. As we roamed around town, we found the Garifuna were very friendly. Dogs trotted along freely in the streets. Children, some dressed in school uniforms, would greet us with an “hola.” Other children were doing their own thing such as taunting the livestock.

Garafuni boy in Livingston Guatemala

Women would tempt us with fresh delicious home-baked pan de coco (coconut bread), which we indulged in frequently, and packed more for our travels beyond. Men would sometimes cordially greet us. As we walked by, a man named Mega, invited us to his home for dinner and offered to teach us how to make tapado, the delicious dish we had tried the night before. Turns out Mega runs a place called Rasta Mesa which has a mission in sustainability and preserving the Garifuna culture in Livingston. We would definitely return for dinner in the evening. But, for now, we would need to continue on our way to Los Siete Altares.

The Long Way to Los Siete Altares

Our route took us through a large and pictureseque cemetery.

Cemetary in Livingston Guatemala

Then we made our way through the long and hot walk down the seemingly only road that runs the expanse of the town. After about an hour stroll, the road ended and we were again reunited with the beach and its much welcomed sea breezes, emerging from the heat of the inland. From here we crossed a river via the swing bridge and set off on the beachside path.

Swing bridge Livingston Guatemala

The beaches themselves weren’t very pretty and often there was no beach, as the ocean came right up the grass or path. But it was still a scenic walk. We tried to ignore the sad areas that were littered with garbage and instead focused on the palm trees and ocean vistas.

Trial to Siete Altares in Livingston Guatemala

Turkey in Livingston GuatemalaWe walked past some farmland, looking at pigs and turkeys who also seemed to enjoy their beachfront property.

After perhaps about another hour of a slow walk, out of nowhere we were greeted by a golden retreiver who led us to a restaurant along the beachside path. We’d packed a makeshift lunch of granola bars, nuts, and pan de coco; so this was a welcomed oasis we stumbled across along the way. After refueling on ceviche, salads, and frozen lemonade,  we then continued on our trek.

Beachside restaurant near Livingston Guatemala Trial to Siete Altares in Livingston Guatemala

Los Siete Altares

The trail eventually began to curve a bit inland and we met the unusually friendly and knowledgable gatekeeper who collected our small fee and pointed us to the way of the pools. Now under the the shade of the lush trees that surrounded, we made our way along the stream bank and to the first of the Siete Altares. Water slowly streamed over the rocks as the afternoon light attempted to pierce through the forest canopy above.

Siete Altares in Livingston GuatemalaWe switched banks and crisscrossed the stream, at times gripping a rope, in order to make our way up further to see each of the cascades.

Siete Altares in Livingston Guatemala

Another 10 minutes hike up the creek lay a swimming hole in where we cooled off with a dip.

Siete Altares in Livingston Guatemala

Los Siete Altares wasn’t a completely amazing “must-do” attraction yet we found it to be a very pleasant site and a worthy day trip in Livingston, Guatemala. The hike to Los Siete Altares, itself, was probably half the fun. We felt safe during the hike and passed very few people. It was neat to walk right alongside the rugged, natural coastline where the ocean sometimes intruded right on to the land.

In fact, the tide was rising on our walk back, washing out the trail at times.

Trial to Siete Altares in Livingston Guatemala

Garifuna Drumming, Dancing & Dining

With our hike to Los Siete Altares complete, it was now time to get cleaned up, get back over to Mega’s place, and learn how to make tapado. But we first met his extended family, nieces, and nephews as they all welcomed us into their home. Drumming is a huge part of the Garifuna culture and even the wee little ones start practicing early.

Garafuni baby drumming

Mega’s sister patiently taught us how to make the tapado every step of the way, from grinding the coconut to pan frying the snapper. They provided us with the recipe, so if you’re looking for something unique and interesting to cook with fresh seafood, we’ve posted the tapado recipe here.

Cooking Tapado

After eating the dish we had just whipped up, Mega’s family treated us to some Garifuna drumming, singing, and dancing. It was a great time experiencing their culture and I laugh every time I watch Heather’s awesome Garifuna dance moves!

Livingston, Guatemala brought smiles to our faces. It may not be a top destination or have the most beautiful beach in Central America. But Livingston undeniably has charm and a lot of soul!

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  • Roaming Around Antigua, GuatemalaRoaming Around Antigua, Guatemala

Filed Under: Adventures Around the World Tagged With: Central America, Guatemala

Comments

  1. Michael says

    October 20, 2020 at 5:17 PM

    As a proud Garifuna, thanks for sharing about your experience in the birthplace of my Mom.

    Reply
  2. ana says

    March 21, 2017 at 2:24 AM

    I loved this! I’m Guatemalan and I think your time with the Garifuna was such a unique and priceless experience! I hope their culture lives on, surviving the huge adversities they face nowadays

    Reply
    • Heather Widmer says

      March 26, 2017 at 11:09 AM

      Hi Ana,
      Thanks for the comment! We really enjoyed our time in Livingston and learning about the Garifuna culture. I completely agree with you and hope that this unique way of life survives for future generations. We’d love to return sometime soon for another visit!

      Reply
  3. Mj says

    October 17, 2015 at 4:24 PM

    Thanks for sharing this….I will be in Livingston this week! I am excited to experience the culture and meet the Garifuna people. 😊

    Reply
    • John Widmer says

      October 18, 2015 at 5:30 PM

      I hope you enjoy Livingston and the Garifuna as much as we did! Such a unique little place in the world. Have fun!!

      Reply
  4. Francesca @onegrloneworld says

    July 28, 2015 at 3:59 AM

    What a nice trip down memory lane! I’m really impressed that you went to Livingston, it’s so off the radar! Garifuna is a beautiful culture and that is so awesome that you were invited to someone’s home! The dance the girls are doing is called Punta, very typical and really hard to master! The video was so cute! 🙂

    Reply
    • John Widmer says

      July 28, 2015 at 10:44 PM

      Ah, thanks! Yeah, we thought Livingston was a really neat place. We had such a great time just walking around this secluded place and the locals were all so welcoming. Seems that you are familiar with its charms too! We did lots of Punta dancing that evening which we were certainly not mastering at all, lol! Thank you for bringing us on our own trip down memory lane by taking us back to this post.

      Reply
  5. Linda Howell says

    March 14, 2014 at 10:24 AM

    Another wonderful adventure. Sure would like to try the tapado. Looks delish! Heather, really enjoyed your Garafuni dance. Love, mom

    Reply
  6. Jessica says

    March 3, 2014 at 6:53 PM

    Love it and love the name of the town 🙂

    Reply

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