The very next day, we rose early to begin this exhilarating expedition.
The weather plays a huge factor in any Volcan Villarrica summit attempt. When we arrived at the excursion office in Pucon, we checked the ever-changing weather conditions. We were thrilled to be given the green light to proceed with the volcano climb.
Skies were blue and the wind was minimal. It was just about perfect conditions for this trek to the top of the Villarrica Volcano. This volcano hike is no easy feat and bad weather only complicates things.
In fact, there have been multiple accidents resulting in injuries and even deaths of tourists climbing Volcan Villarrica, most of which were influenced by poor weather conditions. Such accidents were a little concerning to us. So the seemingly calm weather during the day of our Volcan Villarrica summit was appeasing.
It’s very common for weather conditions or heightened volcano activity to cancel a planned Volcan Villarrica trek. Some travelers wait around in Pucon for days for the chance of clear weather to climb Villarrica Volcano. We expected this. So we planned accordingly, allotting a few extra days staying in Pucon for a better chance of accomplishing a Volcan Villarrica summit. We felt extremely fortunate to get lucky with these blue skies that allowed us to set off up Volcan Villarrica during the first day attempting to do so!
It didn’t take long to get outfitted with ice picks, crampons, and Gortex-lined snow gear. Then we were driven out to the base of Volcan Villarrica.
It was at the base of the volcano where we had one final weather report. The lead guide literally drew a line in the sand.
He gave everyone the choice to opt-out of the Villarrica Volcano summit attempt. He explained that once you cross the line, you were obligated to pay for Volcan Villarrica tour regardless of how far you make it up the icy volcano. Of course, we all crossed his line in the sand.
We were doing this. All in!
Climbing Villarrica Volcano
The first stretch of Volcan Villarrica’s summit was below the ice line, only containing rocky terrain without snow. Here, you have the option to take a chairlift up this segment, which saves you about an hour and a half of hiking.
The guides strongly encouraged everyone to take the chairlift and explained how this extra bit of hiking can be draining, sometimes causing people not to reach the summit. But we came here to climb the entire volcano and as we always aim to stretch our travel budget, we decided to save the extra $18 Chilean Pesos (~$30 USD) that it would cost for of both to take the chairlift.
Instead, those funds would be put towards something more important, like tasty local craft brews once back in Pucon.
And so the trek began.
There were about 30-40 people in our Volcan Villarrica tour group in total. Somewhat surprisingly, there were only five of us who opted not to take the chairlift. As our fellow climbers whisked up above us in their chairlifts, we tackled the steep rocky terrain right from Volcan Villarrica’s base.
Once we reached the ice line where the chairlift ended, the other group was already leisurely making their way up the volcano, with a 90-minute head start on us. Meanwhile, we quickly guzzled water, stuffed a sandwich down our throats, strapped on our crampons, and were given quick instructions on how to use our ice picks. It seemed as if we were in a mad dash for the summit to get there fast, in case the weather conditions changed.
Onward hiking up the snow and ice, this was our first time using crampons, and we actually got used to them quite quickly. We zigzagged up Volcan Villarrica’s cinder cone, trying to step in the footprints before us. We used the ice pick as more of a walking stick, rather than axing our way up the mountain. But the ice pick was still a much-needed tool in order to stabilize ourselves on this steep, treacherous, icy terrain.
We were going at what seemed like a furious pace. The 2,800-meter altitude probably didn’t help matters much either.
Horrible leg cramps soon set in and we were quickly growing out of breath. About halfway up the ice section of the volcano is when our guide finally suggested that we stop to take some photos and rest.
We hadn’t stopped for a break the entire time trekking up Villarrica Volcano, so the idea of a short rest sounded fantastic. Our trekking guide then continued, “…and you can just enjoy this nice view, relax, and when the others come down from the summit, you can go down with them.”
Wait, what?
To clarify, I asked if we would not be completing the summit of the Villarrica Volcano. He responded that he thought it would be too dangerous for us to continue since we weren’t able to keep up to his pace. “Oh, hell no!”
After a bit of back and forth, I convinced him to let us continue.
No rest. No taking pictures. No relaxing to enjoy the view. Onward we went.
But this time, we really had to put on our game face so he wouldn’t turn us back. My right leg was cramping up so bad that I could no longer put weight on it. I used the ice pick as a cane and dragged my lame leg along, sometimes having to pull it up step-by-step with my hands.
Meanwhile Heather was fighting exhaustion. The toxic fumes from the volcano blowing into our lungs certainly weren’t helping matters. We really had to push through the pain. But when the guide looked back, it was all smiles as he sprinted up the icy Villarrica Volcano with ease.
We would get to points in the ice where it appeared we were reaching the top. But upon climbing the steep segment of Volcan Villarrica, we’d realize another nearly vertical portion awaited us ahead.
Then we reached ice patches where our picks just went right through. It was actually hollow underneath. So we could no longer rely on them to support our limping along. It was hiking on this hollowed out ice towards the top of this volcano, when the wind carried the chemical-smelling fumes right in our direction. It choked us and nearly suffocating our every breath. It was all excruciating. We were ready to give up.
You win Villarrica Volcano. You win.
But we were so close!
Volcano Villarrica Summit
We dug deep, pushed ourselves hard, and ultimately prevailed. We finally arrived at the top of Volcan Villarrica.
This agonizing hours-long summit of the Villarrica Volcano had finally come to an end. We made it.
Interestingly enough, we got there exactly at the same time as the chairlift group who had a 90-minute headstart on this grueling trek up the Villarrica Volcano. Hmm… so I guess we weren’t so slow after all.
Having caught up to the others, it was now time to catch our breath. But first, we had to remove our crampons and put on our descending gear just in case we volcano began erupting and we needed to make a quick exit. Yikes!
The views were incredible as you could see the entire surrounding lake-filled land of Patagonia in addition to other impressive volcanoes in the distance.
It was at this moment, that every grueling step of the speedy ascent was suddenly 110% worth it.
We took a peek over the cone of the Villarrica Volcano but were very hesitant to get too close to the edge.
Others seemed to have no problem standing on a ledge of snow on the interior side of a steaming volcano. We took a hard pass on that activity.
Just think, one wrong step or a little slip! Gives me chills.
After nearly collapsing (err, resting) at the top of Volcano Villarrica for about a half hour, it was time to go down.
There’s only one way to get down Volcan Villarrica.
Thankfully we wouldn’t have to climb the way we came up.
Instead, we would be sliding down Volcan Villarrica. What a thirll!
Sledding Down Volcano Villarrica
There were luge-like tunnels carved into the snow that we jumped on in and slid right down. As if the hike up Villarrica Volcano wasn’t crazy enough, this sledding down the active volcano was now just insane.
But it was also a lot of fun. Imagine going down a super-greased up waterslide that ran miles long, and was on the side of a volcano! That’s the only way I can even try to relate the experience. It was like nothing we’ve ever done before and a highlight of the entire Volcan Villarrica trek.
While going down, our guides managed to ski the steep grade while keeping an eye on us and picking up loose items that inevitably popped out as we launched into the air.
Our ice picks became our steering wheels and our breaks as we sled down the Villarrica Volcano. At some moments we were shooting down the volcano so fast that it gave the false sensation that we may fly right off the side. Whenever we felt this way, we attempted to dig our ice picks into the ice to slow down our sledding momentum.
At one point, the ice chute dipped down then launched upward sending us a few feet into the air.
Thrilling? Yes! But the landing was not so glamorous. Ouch!
This was no short sled ride either. The volcano sledding lasted what seemed like about an hour. We slid right down Villarrica Volcano at great speeds, giving testament to the distance of the climb that preceded our joy ride.
All the pain of the climb up Volcan Villarrica now seemed worth it for this awesome shot of adrenaline as we slid down. The panoramic views at the volcano’s summit seemed like the climax of this experience. But it was sledding down these steep icy slopes of Villarrica Volcano that had become the highlight for us.
By mid-afternoon, we had safely reached the base of Villarrica Volcano. So we got to remove all our sweat and snow-soaked gear.
Our muscles were thoroughly exhausted. I’ve never been quite so excited for a hot shower and a cold beer.
Despite the grueling ascent, climbing up and sledding down Pucon’s Villarrica Volcano has been one of our favorite adventures in Chile. We’d definitely recommend it to anyone in decent shape and with an adventurous spirit.
If You Go – Volcano Villarrica Hike Information:
Where to Organize Volcan Villarrica Trek:
You can easily organize the Villarrica Volcano trek from the city of Pucon, Chile, a town located near the base of the volcano. Pucon is a great adventure hub in the area with lots of outfitters, tour companies, hotels, restaurants, and bars. There is a ton of recreation in the nearby area including whitewater rafting, hydrospeeding, hiking, horseback riding, and canyoning. Or you can just relax at the lakeside beach that’s in walking distance from town.
The Need for a Guide to Trek Villarrica Volcano:
Unless you’re a seasoned mountaineering expert traveling with all your gear, you must embark on a Villarrica Volcano tour with a guide. Without a guide, you’ll be required to obtain a mountaineering license and get permission from Conaf. You must also have all of your gear such as crampons, ice pick, and helmet.
Selecting an Outfitter to Summit Volcan Villarrica:
There is an abundance of adventure companies throughout Pucon who offer this Villarrica Volcano excursion. Do you own research and find a reputable company. The company we used to climb Volcan Villarrica is otherwise one of the most highly recommended companies in Pucon according to popular guidebooks and even our hostel owner. But we were a bit disappointed by their rushed pace for those of us who did not take the chairlift.
More importantly, we felt safe the entire time. And safety should be your number one priority when selecting a tour group to go with when climbing a treacherous volcano that has previously resulted in injuries and deaths. Some good advice is to do your research and check safety records of the Villarrica Volcano tour operators.
Making a Reservation to Climb Villarrica Volcano:
On the day you arrive in Pucon, be sure to reserve an excursion for the very next day. Weather often prohibits this climb. If you have multiple days in Pucon and your summit gets scrapped, you will get bumped to the following days in which you’ll hope for improved weather.
When to Go Make a Summit Attempt of Volcan Villarrica:
We did this Volcano Villarrica climb in early January, which is the middle of summer here in the Southern Hemisphere. Yet there was still a lot of snow on the cone. People were even skiing down. We were told that the later summer months (February and March) tend to have progressively less snow, which makes sledding down Volcan Villarrica more difficult and can make descending slightly more dangerous. Yet conditions change from year to year and day to day. You may even find that the volcano is active!
Cost of Villarrica Volcano Climb:
We saw prices for this trip consistently at $40,000 or $45,000 Chilean Pesos per person that includes transportation and all essential equipment. Food is typically not provided, nor is water. When choosing a guide be sure to do your due diligence on exactly what is included and what their policy is if the full summit is canceled due to changing weather conditions.
What To Bring When Climbing the Villarrica Volcano:
Eat a full breakfast beforehand and pack a quick lunch (like a sandwich) and snacks for energy.
The Volcan Villarrica tour guides suggest bringing chocolate bars to give quick bursts of energy.
Bring at least 1.5 liters of water per person.
Wear long pants and three layers. (Additional waterproof outer layers are provided.)
Bring sunscreen and sunglasses.
If you are thinking about taking the chairlift, bring 9,000 pesos per person to pay for it when you get to the chairlift.
You pay for the entire Villarrica Volcano tour pay at the end, so bring cash or card for that too, in addition to a few extra bucks if you wish to tip your guide(s).
Where is the Baño on Volcan Villarrica:
There are no toilets along the way and no trees to hide behind, so be sure to go at the porta-potties at the base of the volcano where the chairlift begins. Otherwise, you’ll endure a funny position with other climbers watching you turn the snow yellow.
Important: Deciding To Take the Chairlift or Not Take the Chairlift on the Villarrica Volcano
In retrospect, we wish we had taken the chairlift.
It wasn’t the extra few kilometers of hiking that wore us down; it was the fact that we went at twice the pace in order to catch the group who did take the chairlift. If we had understood that we would need to climb Villarrica Volcano at an accelerated pace by not taking the chairlift, we probably would have opted differently.
Not taking the chairlift pros:
- You hike the entire volcano
- You save 9,000 Chilean pesos per person
Not taking the chairlift cons:
- You must ascend at a much faster pace than everyone else
- There’s little to no breaks to enjoy the climb
- There’s greater chance that the weather can turn, ending your climb
- Adds an extra few kilometers to an already demanding climb
Villarrica Volcano Climb Recommendation – Just Go!
Overall, we would definitely recommend this intense climb to anyone of moderate fitness who is up for the challenge. The views atop Volcan Villarrica are a breathtaking reward.
The experience of using crampons and an ice-pick to climb to the summit of this massive peak was like nothing we’ve ever embarked on before, making for an incredible challenge.
Sledding down Villarrica Volcano was one of the best thrills we had during our two months roaming around Patagonia. Climbing Volcan Villarrica is a must-do for any adventure junkies traveling near Pucon, Chile!
Heather says
another thing to consider when choosing the time of year that you go is the more snow, the more difficult the climb.
I was surprisingly fatigued quite early on because I went in mid October and there was still A LOT of snow to climb through at the beginning of the hike. It was warming up so it was soft and we’d sink. Not an easy way to start.
Peter J Brett says
Thanks for this interesting article. I and one of my sons did the climb in January 1998. We were fully equipped by the tour operator but I can’t remember whether we got the dual-cartridge gas masks. Our leader did, but I can’t remember ours. Did you get them? I’m asking as a result of the White Island disaster, with my 20/20 hindsight I think the Chileans have safety fairly well nailed.
Owen says
Wow, it looks amazing! i am going to Pucon in 2 days, and I am so excited. How tough is the trek on the knees though? I hurt my left knee very badly one month ago at Torres del Paine, even though I still did Fitz Roy and Cerro Castillo few weeks later (bearing the pain). If this is much tougher I might have to give it a miss,
John Widmer says
That’s really hard to say. I suppose it depends on just how bad your knees is. Villarica definitely is very tough on your knees, so not sure if it would be a good idea to pursue. I probably wouldn’t risk it. Then again, if you were able to get through Fitz Roy, you may be able to push through the pain here too. In comparison this is a shorter trek, although much more steep, technical, and hard on the knees. If there is plenty of snow on the peak, you’ll be able to sled down instead of putting your bad knee through the descent.
Owen says
Thank you John. I’m here at Pucon right now. Fitz Roy was a struggle on the knees on the descent. Steep, technical and hard on the knees? I guess I’d skip it. Such a pity.
Enrique Hoefele says
A personal question, if you don’t mind: how fit are you? Do you hike frequently? What’s your approx. age? I am reasonably fit but after being on vacations for 2 weeks without exercising I am getting concerned.
Also,if you can’t make it to the top, can you turn back with a guide?
I usually hike with hiking poles. Do you recommend them?
Thanks!
John Widmer says
We are both fairly fit in our early 30s. We’re avid hikers but don’t work out regularly or anything. If you are relatively fit, I’d say go for it. But most definitely take the chair lift for the first part so that you can take a more leisurely pace and not sprint up like we did. If you can’t make it to the top, I imagine that a guide would accommodate you. Not sure about bringing hiking poles because you may need to have your hands free at times. I’d visit the outfitters once you are are there and ask before booking.
Lauren says
What was the company that you used?
John Widmer says
We used Aguaventura. At first I was hesitant to name them in this post because I didn’t want to damage their otherwise good reputation just because our guides really rushed us.
Gerald says
Great blog. We are travelling to Pucon in October and may take the lift up but the hike seems like to much of a challenge!
Loss says
That’s an impressive climb. The views look amazing. Chile seems to have some of the best climbs in the world.
Chris Wotton says
Wow, what stunning vistas – I love that first one in particular. Congratulations on making it up, and thanks for such a comprehensive post.
Dana says
Congratulations on making the climb and pushing through the pain. I would have preferred to skip the chairlift as well, but it looks like it’s worth it to not have to rush up to the top. The views are spectacular!
raphael alexander zoren says
Whoaaaa, Chile sure has some incredible Volcanoes!!! Nice photos!!!
Laurie @ New Yorker Meets London says
Wow. Such an achievement to make it to the top and look at the gorgeous views behind you guys. Looks like an amazing experience! 🙂
zof says
This volcano looks majestic. I’d love to hike it one day.
Marie-Carmen says
Well that was courageous not to take the chairlift! To be honest I would have been lazy and would have taken it!
It looks like a fantastic hike though! Very nice!
Meg Jerrard says
WOW this looks amazing, kudos on the climb! And really, only 5 out of 40 didn’t take the chairlift??! Totally counts as cheating lol! The views are incredible, massive congrats on completing this climb. And thsnks for the helpful tips – adding this to my list 🙂
Toni says
Fantastic effort and well worth it for those amazing views! Not sure I could have done it though getting to sled back down would possibly have motivated me along.
Sue Reddel says
I have to say that you two are brave and resilient. Good for you for hiking up the volcano too bad the guide rushed you when in retrospect you probably could have taken it just a wee slower. That slide down would scare the heck out of me. Thanks for sharing your story this is one trip I’ll leave to the more adventurous.
Breanna Wilson says
This is so awesome!! What an adventure 🙂
Jennifer says
Impressive effort and what gorgeous view at the top.
John Widmer says
Thanks! Views at the top really were pretty spectacular!