Pope Francis Visits San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas, Mexico 2016

Each morning here in the small mountain town of San Cristobal de las Casas, Mexico, the neighborhood wakes up around you. Birds begin to chirp. Dogs start barking. Roosters proceed to cock-a-doodle-doo. Yet what acts as our alarm clock is the nearby church bells that begin to chime loudly for about thirty seconds in the morning, during the six o’clock hour.

But on Monday morning, we didn’t receive our usual church bell wake-up call. It was a subtle sign to us that today would be different. The Pope was arriving! Pope Francis was making a historic visit to San Cristobal de las Casas, Mexico.

It’s our theory that the church bell ringer had neglected his daily duty in order to attend one of the Papal events throughout town on this beautifully sunny day. And who could blame him? It would be a once-in-a-lifetime occasion for him and other devoted Catholics living all around the surrounding villages who had descended in droves to San Cristobal de las Casas in hopes of catching a glimpse of Papa Francisco.

It was complete happenstance that our paths would cross with Pope Francis. When searching for accommodation in San Cristobal de las Casas, we had no idea the Pope was coming to town.

In searching for a small house for a month-long stay, we inquired about rental availability with nearly a dozen different hosts who all gave us the same response. They informed us that the entire month was available except for February 14^th or 15^th. We thought this little mountain town must be a very popular place to celebrate Valentine’s Day.

Of course, that wasn’t the case at all. We were completely surprised to finally learn the true reason why mid-February accommodation was in short supply in San Cristobal de las Casas, Mexico, was due to the Pope’s visit.

Thankfully we eventually did find a home to rent and we moved in just days before Pope Francis’s arrival. We really enjoyed these first few days in San Cristobal de las Casas as we discovered the town’s many charms. It’s a high-altitude town at 2,200 meters elevation, surrounded by pine tree-draped mountains. There’s a large indigenous community living here who help to make the quaint cobblestone streets colorful and vibrant.

It was this large indigenous community that had presumably helped to attract Pope Francis to this otherwise small blip on Mexico’s map. In the past, church leaders have frowned upon their practicing a version of Catholicism that blends local culture with traditional Roman Catholic ways. But this Pope would instead come to deliver a message of unity and inclusiveness to the indigenous community.

Additionally, San Cristobal de las Casas is located in the Mexican state of Chiapas, which is the poorest state in the entire country, with a poverty rate of 75%. So it was befitting that this so-called “Pope of the Poor” would make an official visit to the region.

In the days leading up to Pope Francis’s historic papal visit, yellow and white Vatican flags began to line the streets. Thorough cleaning efforts were clearly underway as fresh coats of paint were slapped onto buildings. Roadways began to be cordoned off for the Ruta de Papa (Pope Route). Meanwhile, the town became more and more crowded.

The evening before his arrival, in typical Mexican fashion, cohetes (fireworks) began to pop throughout the city as the pulsating energy of marching bands could be heard from several streets away.

It was Valentine’s Day, so we went to have a wander around the town to absorb this excitement while also having a date night of dinner & drinks. Those latter plans were thwarted though. We had a list of notable bars that we were excited to visit. Yet as we trekked over the hilly streets of San Cristobal de las Casas, trying to locate each establishment, we arrived to closed doors. Meanwhile, the restaurants that were open in town, were all strangely empty despite the huge increase in visitors.

We were thrilled when we finally arrived at a café notable for its artisanal mescal and found it to be open. But as the server delivered our menu, he spoke to us in Spanish in an apologetic tone in which I distinctively heard the words “no alcohol.”

It now all made sense. There was a two-day prohibition that had gone into effect banning alcohol sales due to the Pope’s visit. This is known as ley seca, or dry law, that Mexico sometimes imposes during important events such as elections.

So it was a dry Valentine’s Day dinner for us. Yet understandably so, as the government wants to ensure that everyone behaves themselves when His Holiness arrives.

The morning of Pope’s Francis visit to San Cristobal de las Casas had come. Absent were the church bells. Instead, we opened our windows to hear soft angelic music wafting throughout the town. The Pope would be arriving in town by helicopter and it wasn’t long before we heard a chopper soaring directly about our house. The Pope had arrived.

Pope Francis’s first official stop in San Cristobal de las Casas was at the Sedem sports stadium to deliver mass to a large crowd of indigenous Catholics.

We decided to go against the grain in an effort to rendezvous with the Papal leader en route to Pope Francis’s afternoon visit to the San Cristobal de las Casas Cathedral. This is a historic church that took three hundred years to build when construction began way back in the early 14^th century.

It was unusually quiet, as most of the town had possibly already embarked on their mission to see Pope Francis in San Cristobal de las Casas. Storefronts were shuttered and few people could be seen on the otherwise bustling streets.

As we neared the Cathedral, that all changed. It was packed.

Popemania had overtaken the center of San Cristobal de las Casas. Street vendors were selling Pope t-shirts, flags, coffee mugs, and bracelets to adoring crowds who welcomed all the Pope-branded merchandise, making purchases by the handful. Banners and signs were up all over San Cristobal de las Casas to welcome Pope Francis to their quaint town in the mountains of Southern Mexico.

People began to line the streets as the excitement built. The festive vibe in the air was similar to that of a group of concertgoers awaiting one of their favorite bands to come out.

The “wave” even began along the streets as did chanting. “Long live the Pope of the poor!” and “Welcome Pope of the struggle!” could be heard shouted in unison in Spanish.

The events all unfolded in a surprisingly orderly manner in this sometimes-chaotic country. Perhaps the faithful were being on their best behavior for Pope Francis in San Cristobal de las Casas. Or maybe it was the abundance of police and military that helped to maintain a truly disciplined crowd.

Whatever the case, it was all very organized and well executed. Red Cross officials and ambulances were stationed on standby on every street. As the sun beamed down, officials came by to deliver complimentary water to the masses who had gathered to get a glimpse of Pope Francis in San Cristobal de las Casas.

The almost entirely local crowd grew thicker and thicker. We tried to mix in as fellow Pope-seekers kindly shared their umbrellas to help block the relentless sun.

Can you spot me in the crowd?

Anticipation came to a climax shortly after Noon when we began to hear a buzz from the crowd on the route preceding us. The motorcade was approaching. Wide smiles adorned their faces as the faithful cried out “Papa, papa!” The Popemobile rolled by much more quickly than we all had imagined.

During the Pope’s swift drive-by, his back was turned to us as he waved to those who had gathered on the opposite side of the street. You could hear a collective sigh of disappointment around us that the Holy Father didn’t turn around.

It was a little disappointing being so close and not being able to give a wave and a smile to the Pope. But we still enjoyed seeing the wonderment and smiles on the faces of the crowd across the street from us. But maybe we could get another chance!

So we managed to race around the corner to the picturesque Cathedral of San Cristobal de las Casas. The Pope was en route to the Cathedral for an official visit.

We had found a shortcut to the site that beat out the motorcade.

We arrived at the intersection with near-perfect timing. Off in the distance, we could see Pope Francis coming on a direct path toward us. As if almost on cue, pigeons fluttered in the air in front of the historic Cathedral.

There he was, full of smiles and waves. After snapping a few photos, we found ourselves nearly face-to-face with the head of the Catholic Church. It was a surreal moment.

I yelled out to him “Buen viaje Papa!” (Have a good trip Pope!)

He looked at me, smiled, and then motioned as if he was providing a blessing.

Wow.

Now I don’t know if he actually heard me or if his gestures were even directed toward me, but it was pretty cool to share a moment with this particular Pope in this special town in Mexico.

He proceeded to the Cathedral of San Cristobal de las Casas to have lunch with the indigenous community along with a papal entourage. We were surprised to find an empty café only a half block away, where we proceeded to chow down on Mexican tortas just a few hundred meters away from where Pope Francis was lunching.

Soon after, the Pope ascended to the altar inside the church to greet the pilgrims who had gathered there. His message to pray for the sick was broadcasted on large TVs that had been placed so that the throngs of people outside the Cathedral could witness the moment. It was well received, as the crowd seemed to hang on to his every word.

Pope Francis then made a swift exit, departing just as quickly as he arrived.

The adoring crowd rejoiced one final time at his affectionate smiles.

It was a momentous and memorable day. Even for those of us who aren’t particularly religious, it was difficult to not get completely swept up in the enthusiasm that surrounded Pope’s visit.

Experiencing local culture can make for extraordinary experiences during one’s travels and this remarkable event in San Cristobal de las Casas, Mexico, was certainly no exception.