Isla del Sol, Bolivia’s “Island of the Sun,” was one of the most unexpected surprises during a four-month adventure across the Andes.
Venturing to Isla del Sol is a tranquil escape to nature, hiking, local island life, ruins, and sweeping views of Lake Titicaca. Those traveling across South America, regularly recommend at stop into Isla del Sol, Bolivia. We’re here to continue that advice, show how to get to Isla del Sol from Copacabana by ferry, and why it’s worth it to stay overnight.
Roaming around Isla del Sol turned out to be one of our favorite experiences in Bolivia. Yet it was not without its share of unexpected setbacks, such as the entire middle and northern part of the island being closed to tourism due to an ongoing conflict.
Despite the majority of the island being cordoned off, we still found Isla del Sol to be totally worth staying for a night, rather than a day trip. In this post we’ll elaborate on our opinion of why to stay the night, explain about this North vs South island dispute, and give you some Isla del Sol travel tips to help plan your island getaway.
What’s So Great About Isla del Sol Bolivia?
There’s just something about Isla del Sol. This island is a tranquil little escape from the hustle and bustle of South America. Isla del Sol itself boasts a stunning landscape that juts up in dramatic fashion out from Lake Titicaca.
Typical of island life, everything seems laidback here and moves at a delightfully slower pace. Additional appeal to Isla del Sol is:
- great hiking trails,
- incredible lookout points,
- Incan ruins,
- free-roaming livestock,
- interesting places to stay,
- a hidden “gourmet” restaurant, and
- loads of local culture & tradition.
This combination makes for a fascinating and unique place in the world.
If that all weren’t enough, Lake Titicaca is considered to be the highest navigable lake in the entire world. It’s also South America’s largest lake. And Isla del Sol is the biggest island within this enormous high altitude lake. That’s a lot of superlatives for one place!
Isla del Sol is rooted in Incan history
The Incas believed that Isla del Sol was the birthplace of the Sun God. After spending a few days here you’ll certainly see where the island has gotten it’s name from.
At about 4,000 meters in altitude (nearly 2.5 miles high), the sun shines quite intensely. You’ll catch rays in all directions too as the sun reflects upwards from the surrounding lake. Any sun worshipers out there will surely appreciate this effect. But everyone else will want to be sure to cover up or face getting burned.
This video we shot should help to give you some idea of what makes Isla del Sol special, but really it doesn’t even begin to do the island justice. Isla del Sol is one of those places that needs to be experienced in person. Although that’s just our opinion, and I don’t want to overhype the island. We say just head over to this mystical island and decide for yourself.
6 Reasons Why To Stay Overnight on Isla Del Sol
1) To See The Sunset
This island is named after the sun, after all. It’s quite the spectacle to watch that big orange ball descend down into Lake Titicaca. But although the sunset occurs in the west, there are arguably even better views to the east.
On clear days, the late afternoon sun beams down and illuminates the Cordillera Real mountains (part of the Andes) on the mainland, which are often not visible from Isla del Sol in the morning.
But in the late afternoon, they begin to emerge and glow. When it nears sunset time, you may find it difficult to decide which direction to gaze.
Whichever direction you choose to look, there are many beautiful places all across the island to watch the sunset. We recommend anywhere perched atop the island’s ridge running across the spine of Isla del Sol.
There are some great miradors (look-out points) here to take in the sunset. Pack a Paceña (beer) from any of the little shops to truly unwind.
Or there are also a handful of westward-facing restaurants atop the ridgeline where you can watch the “show” while eating dinner and sipping a bottle of Bolivian wine.
The last Isla del Sol to Copacabana ferry departs the island at 4:00 pm. So the only way you’ll be able to catch the sunset here is to stay overnight. Sunset time on Isla del Sol is between 6:00 and 7:15 pm, depending on the time of year.
You can check the exact sunset time by date here.
2) More Time To Experience Isla del Sol …Slowly
You can certainly visit most of Isla del Sol’s highlights on a day trip, particularly if only visiting the South portion of the island. But during a day trip, visitors must rush around Isla del Sol. There’s lots of huffing and puffing while making your way across the island’s often-steep, high altitude terrain.
Taking a day trip to Isla del Sol will give you about 5 hours in total to explore the island and be back to the ferry docks in time for your afternoon departure. It’s quite doable to cover most of the southern part of the island in that amount of time.
But if you’re planning to get your fill of hiking, you’ll need to move quickly, which goes entirely against what makes this island so special.
Day trippers likely won’t have time to take a leisurely long lunch. You may not have a moment to stop and practice your Spanish by having a chat with a friendly resident. You won’t have time to explore deeper and get to know the island.
Isla del Sol just isn’t the type of place to rush through. But perhaps most importantly, you simply won’t have time to truly relax during a day trip, which brings me to our next point.
3) Unplug & Unwind
There are no cars on Isla del Sol. You walk to get wherever you are going.
Wifi is a rarity. We were unable to get a data signal on our mobile phone. And it was great!
Sometimes it’s nice to escape from modern conveniences. Isla del Sol provides the perfect environment for a digital detox. This island is such a tranquil place to get away from everything, leaving all your worries behind.
It’s not possible to fully experience the serenity of this special place during a rushed day trip to Isla del Sol. You must stay for a night (or two) to really slip away into relaxation mode. Bring a book, disconnect, and drift away into this peaceful island paradise.
4) Come For the Sun, Stay For the Stars
On a clear night, the skies above Isla del Sol tend to light up.
There are no street lamps here and virtually no light pollution way out here in the middle of Lake Titicaca.
As a result, you may be treated to an astrological performance in the form of stars, planets, and maybe even a shooting star or two. Many galaxies light up the night sky above Isla del Sol and it’s spectacular. Enjoy!
5) Get A Room With A View
Many of the Isla del Sol hotels and hostels are fairly basic but there is just something special about sleeping on this serene island. Maybe it was experiencing the simple way of life. The dogs, donkeys, and llamas that wandered around outside our window always put smiles on our faces.
Yet perhaps it was the view you wake up to in the morning that really win visitors over. Most hotels and hostels on Isla del Sol are positioned to offer sweeping vistas of Lake Titicaca and the island itself.
Get a room with a view for a spectacular way to be greeted with the island’s namesake morning sun.
6) Enjoy The Island To Yourself
It seems that many people visit Isla del Sol as part of a day trip from Copacabana. As such, there’s a noticeable swell of visitors between 10:30 am and 4:00 pm.
But when trekking around the island in the morning and late afternoon hours, you may feel like you’re the only person around. The serenity is a beautiful thing.
Know About The North vs South Conflict on Isla del Sol
During our time of visit to Isla del Sol, there was a major conflict between the Northern and Southern portions of the island. As a result, the entire North (and middle) portion of the island was completely closed to tourism. Ferries were not proceeding on their normal routes to the Northern part of Isla del Sol because of this conflict. There was absolutely no way to reach the Northern communities of Cha’llapampa or Cha’lla.
With no ferries running to the North, we attempted to trek there through the middle of Isla del Sol. We were blocked by locals who would not allow us pass. It was a peaceful and non-threatening exchange. But they were very firm in not letting us go through.
Below is an Isla del Sol map showing approximately where the cut-off point is (indicated in red) and the furthest point North you’re permitted to hike (the black X).
As of 2019, the conflict is still in effect, so the North portion of Isla del Sol is still closed to visitors (at time of last update). Yet some travelers have reported being able to get a boat the north portion of the island. If you visit Isla del Sol, comment on this post and we’ll gladly update this information for other travelers. Gracias!
So what is this North vs. South conflict all about? We’re not entirely sure as we have heard many different rumors about the cause of this conflict. Someone on the island had explained to us that it had something to do with tourism development occurring too close to sacred Incan ruins which caused the dispute. Other hearsay was that the North was getting all the tourism money and the center wasn’t getting any, so they decided to set fire to the Northern part of the island – yikes! According to this rumor, it was the southern part of the island that cordoned off the remainder of the island until those who set the fires pay for the damages.
We were unable to validate whether any of this hearsay is true or not. But we can verify that there indeed is an ongoing conflict. Apparently this could remain for years to come. We will update this post if/when we hear the North is open to tourism again.
So is Isla del Sol still worth it? Given the conflict, we were only able to explore around Yumani (South part of the island). Yet we still wholehearted feel that Isla del Sol is well worth visiting. It’s absolutely beautiful and worth an entire day and night.
If You Go to Isla del Sol Bolivia: Travel Tips
How to Get to Isla del Sol Bolivia
The only way to get to this island is by boat. The most common and easiest way to get to Isla del Sol is by ferry between Copacabana and Isla del Sol, twice each day.
Hence, you must first make your way to Copacabana on mainland Bolivia. For Northbound travelers, there are fairly frequent buses from La Paz to Copacabana. Southbound travelers can get to Copacabana by bus from Puno, Peru.
Ferry from Copacabana to Isla del Sol
It’s only a 16-kilometer (10-mile ferry trip) from Copacabana to Isla del Sol. But these ferries are very slow. So travel time on this Copacabana-to-Isla del Sol ferry takes about two hours.
The final half-hour of the ferry to Isla del Sol is the most scenic. At this point, the ferry nears the island and maneuvers through some rock formations. Pro tip: Snag a seat on the port (left-hand) side of the boat for the best views as you get close to Isla del Sol.
🕗 Ferry schedule: Copacabana to Isla del Sol ferry times are 8:30 am and 1:30 pm. Arrive to the docks about a half-hour before the scheduled departure.
💲 Ferry price: The Isla del Sol ferry ride costs 20 Bolivianos (~$3), each way.
🎟️ Buying ferry tickets: To ensure securing a seat, do buy a ferry ticket in advance from one of the many travel agencies in Copacabana. You may be fine simply turning up to the boat docks and buying a ticket there too. It’s the same price, either way. So we recommend securing a ticket in advance just in case. It seems you can only purchase a one-way ferry ticket to Isla del Sol. So buy your return ticket from Isla del Sol to Copacabana once you arrive on the island.
Alternative route from Yampupata to Isla del Sol
Ultimately this route will likely cost more, take longer, and involves a transfer at Yampupata. Hence we recommend to simply take the ferry from Copacabana to Isla del Sol, as described above.
But do know there is another route. You can hire a taxi or take a bus from Copacabana to Yampupata. The village of Yampupata is a closer point to Isla del Sol. From Yampupata, you can hire a rowboat or motorboat to take you across to Isla del Sol.
Puno to Isla del Sol by boat
For those coming from Peru to Bolivia, it would seem logical on a map to travel from Puno to Isla del Sol by boat. Unfortunately, such a route does not exist across Lake Titicaca. To get from Puno to Isla del Sol, you must first take a bus across the border to Copacabana, and then transfer to the morning or afternoon ferry to Isla del Sol.
Stay A Night Before or After In Copacabana So You Can Drop Your Bags
While Copacabana tends not to be a highlight on any Bolivia itinerary, we found it to be pleasant enough and certainly worth exploring for an afternoon. But Copacabana is an even more sensible stop simply for logistical reasons.
You must understand that once on Isla del Sol, most of the hotels are way up atop the island. The shortness of breath of the 4,000-meter altitude adds to the challenge. You do NOT want to schlep all of your heavy gear up this steep grade with you. Thankfully most hotels in Copacabana will allow you to leave your luggage there if you are staying with them before or after your overnight trip to Isla del Sol.
So just pack a small overnight bag that contains the essentials. (More on what to pack, later in this post). Leave everything else in Copacabana, where you must return to anyways for your onward travel. Most all hotels and hostels in Copacabana have complimentary left luggage storage specifically for this reason.
In Copacabana, we can personally recommend Hotel Wendy Mar, which had very secure luggage storage. But not only that, it has what we believe is the best deal in town! Hotel Wendy Mar has nice, big rooms that start at just $25 per night and even includes a good hot breakfast. When you get there, ask for a room on one of the higher floors and you’ll enjoy views of Lake Titicaca!
Check here for Hotel Wendy Mar rates and availability on your dates.
Top Things To Do On Isla del Sol Bolivia
Given the aforementioned conflict on the island, we were only able to explore the southern portion of Isla del Sol. Hence, the following recommendations of things to do on Isla del Sol are exclusively confined to the South.
1) Go Hiking on Isla del Sol:
Isla del Sol offers some great trekking and the views are phenomenal. Often times we felt like we were on a Greek island in the Mediterranean. The terrain, the blue waters, and the donkeys all added to this feeling.
Despite only being able to trek the southern part of Isla del Sol, there are still about 10 kilometers of trails here that you can hike along. This 7-kilometer route will bring you to the South island’s best miradors. This circuit will likely take about three-four hours to complete if you account for some time to explore the ruins and pause to enjoy the miradors.
Note: At the Southern mirador, we saw many trekkers who incorrectly assumed this point was the end of the trail. Most people turn around. But you can most definitely continue on further down a series of less-defined trails. This is also one of the routes to access the Pilko Kaina ruins.
2) See the Pilko Kaina Ruins on Isla de Sol
These ancient Incan ruins may pale in comparison to some of the larger sites in South America. Yet the Pilko Kaina ruins make a nice diversion to poke into while already trekking around the southern tip of Isla del Sol.
Note: There is no admission fee for the ruins itself. But do be sure that you bring your entrance ticket from when you first arrived to the island. There is a guy manning Pilko Kaina that will ask to see that ticket, or else you’ll have to buy a new one.
3) Roam around the Community of Yumani
Yumani is the main community in the southern part of Isla del Sol. You’ll see it right up the steep hill from the ferry docks. Yumani is where most of the locals live. It’s also where most of the restaurants and hostels are. If staying overnight, you’ll likely be sleeping somewhere in Yumani.
Be sure to take some time to get a little lost by wandering through the tiny island town. Visit some of the livestock. Have a chat with a local resident. We found most people here to be very friendly.
Check out the church. Stop into a cafe and quench your thirst with a beverage.
4) Climb the Inca Stairs on Isla del Sol
There are two different ways to get from the ferry dock to Yumani: (1) the donkey trail and (2) the escalara de Inca (Incan stairs).
We recommend the latter. This ancient stairway to Yumani ascends the island alongside gardens and a trickling fountain. Look for the Sun God to find your way.
5) Relax
This may be the best thing to do in Isla del Sol. No further explanation is necessary.
Where to Eat: Isla del Sol Restaurants
Restaurants with a View
There are a handful of restaurants and cafes scattered around the Yumani settlement and beyond. Most of these restaurants tend to have very similar menus. The common set menus include pollo a la plancha and fresh lake trout.
Any of the meals at these restaurants are decent. But none are particularly noteworthy. The views on the other hand, are so awesome that you won’t even care what’s on your plate.
We recommend going to whatever Isla del Sol restaurant has an open table and a great view. You’ll find a string of restaurants lining the ridge on the trail just a little bit further uphill from the main Yumani community.
All of the restaurants have indoor seating, but on a nice day in Isla del Sol, you’ve gotta dine al fresco!
Best in Bolivia: You Must Eat At Las Velas
One restaurant that we can specifically recommend on Isla del Sol is Las Velas.
The experience of having dinner here is actually one more reason to stay overnight on Isla de Sol. Las Velas is completely hidden, located down a path that’s away from everything else. That’s part of what makes it special.
There is no electricity here so that makes cooking techniques interesting. The kitchen is equipped with a wood-burning oven and some propane-fueled devices. The name, Las Velas, appropriately translates to “the candles.” You’ll be most definitely dining by candlelight here.
Because of the lack of electricity to cook your meal, be prepared to stick around for a while. We waited over an hour and a half for our meal.
Also, you should know that Las Velas menu prices were nearly double what we found throughout the rest of the island. You are paying for quality here. Our fresh trout in a wine sauce came to 50 bolivianos. And while it may be pricey by Bolivian standards, this delicious $7 gourmet meal is an absolutely steal by international standards.
We can attest that a meal at Las Velas is worth both the wait and the price. It turned out to be our favorite meal in all of Bolivia.
To find Las Velas, look for some signs in Yumani that point you in the right direction. Las Velas is just off the trail that leads to the southern mirador.
Where to Stay: Isla del Sol Hostels & Hotels
There is a decent amount of basic accommodation scattered throughout Yumani, towards the upper reaches. It is very possible to simply show up to Isla del Sol and find a place. But we suggest booking in advance.
Isla del Sol hostels tend to vary greatly in quality. The nicer ones that are listed online, do tend to get booked full. So to snag one of Isla del Sols best hostels, make an advanced reservation.
It’s also much more convenient to already have a place reserved. That way you can drop your day pack and start exploring, rather than spending your time on the island locating and comparing hostels.
For value, location, and great views, we suggest Hostal del Sol, with rooms starting at $29 USD including a good breakfast. We personally stayed there and can tell you it was fairly basic, yet very comfortable. It had hot water showers, electricity, a warm & comfy bed, nice views, and we definitely recommend. We really enjoyed staying here amongst the llamas and donkeys that wander the property. You can find the best rates online for Hostal del Sol on hostelworld.com.
What To Pack For Isla del Sol
Again, we recommend to leave your main pack at a hostel or hotel in Copacabana. Just bring an overnight bag with you to the island. Here’s are some suggestions on what to pack for Isal del Sol:
- One change of clothes per night
- A warm jacket – It gets chilly at night
- Sunscreen – Seriously, don’t forget the sunscreen or else you will get burned. Amazon has great prices on BananaBoat, so stock up before your trip to Bolivia. Be sure to pack some lip balm with SPF too.
- Small flashlight – Unless there’s a bright full moon, it’s going to be super dark and you won’t be able to find your way back to your accommodation after dinner. Don’t forget to pack a flashlight. We use this Mini LED Flashlight, which we love as we found to be the most powerful flashlight for its small size and price.
- Toiletries – Pack whatever you need for a night: toothbrush, toothpaste, deodorant, etc.
- Bottled water – Stay hydrated.
- Camera and/or phone – Isla del Sol is a photographer’s paradise. You’ll certainly find some Instagramable shots. (Here’s one of our favorites we captured with our drone. PS. Give us a follow on IG if you like travel pics 🙂 )
- Poncho or rain gear
- Cash money – There is no ATM on the island and we didn’t see anywhere accepting credit card, so it’s very important to stock up on cash before you arrive. We recommend to bring more cash than you are budgeting for. Prices are slightly higher here than on mainland, you may indulge in a few extra beers, and you’ll want to have some spare cash just in case. There are ATMs in Copacabana, so make a withdrawal before you catch the ferry. You can easily find an ATM on Av 6 de Agosto. On Isla del Sol, there are a few shops with currency exchange (casas de cambios), but you’ll like get a better rate in Copacabana.
- Maybe a towel – The hostel we recommend, Hostal del Sol, does provide towels. But not all hostels on the island do. So if you’re not staying there, you may want to bring a towel to dry off after showering.
- Maybe a bathing suit – We can’t imagine going swimming in the frigid waters of Lake Titicaca. But some people do. If you like cold water, pack a swimsuit.
Find more packing recommendations over at our: Ultimate Packing Checklist.
Roaming Around Isla del Sol Bolivia
We hope this Isla del Sol travel guide and blog post has helped a little to plan your trip. If you go, we really hope you enjoy your time on this mystical island as much as we did.
Have you roamed around Isla del Sol?
Let us know in the comments how your experience was. And feel free to give an update about the ongoing conflict and any possible resolution. Also, we’re happy to answer any questions you might have about Bolivia’s Island of the Sun. So feel free to ask!
Happy travels amigos! 🙂
Aoife says
Thanks so much for mentioning the Cordillera Real! I made my way back up to a mirador for the sunset and was able to enjoy both the view of sun setting over the lake in the east and the effects of that on the stunning Cordillera River Real in the east 🙂
PS The north of the island is still cordoned off at time of writing (15/10/19)
John Widmer says
Aren’t those mountain views just stunning! 🙂 And thanks so much for an on-the-ground update about the northern side.
Andrew says
John,
My wife and I were on the Island of the Sun in September 2019. I was made aware of the conflict between the north and the south and the stories I heard were not very nice. I will not go into it here but it stems from greed over the tourist money. The north where the Challapampa people live is only closed off because the South tell everyone that it is but in reality it is not. Most of the hostels and restaurants have had to shut down because tourists are not going there anymore. One hostel and one restaurant remain open on the north side for those tourists who ignore what they are told and venture to the north. We made a booking at the Willka Kuti Hostel and the owner Freddie picked us up from the South side of the Island on his private boat for a cost of 150 Boliviano. We also found out you can catch the community boat that runs between Copacapana and the north part of the island for 30 Boliviano. This runs every Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday. Freddie was very hospitable and carried our luggage in his wheel barrow across the beach sand to his hostel. His son gave us a free tour of the archaeological sites on the north side as well. He speaks very little English but Google translate is a godsend and we were able to communicate well enough. We were the only tourists on the north side for the few days we were there. The north side of the island is much flatter than the south side and the scenery is very beautiful and spectacular and very different to the south side. The Challapampa people are very friendly and it saddened me that tourists were no longer going to the north as the Challapampa need the tourist money to support them as well. Freddie thanked us warmly for making the effort to come to the north and supporting his family. The infrastructure is there to accommodate more tourists. It just needs people to start going back and all the hostels and restaurants can maybe reopen. I am writing this long post in the hope that your readers read it and do not listen to the people in the south of the island and make the effort to venture to the north of the island. They will not be disappointed if they do as the north part of the island is very, very beautiful.
Gert J. DELANGE says
It is a shame that both communities cannot come to a deal that brings profit to both ! e.g. (Foreign) tourists can easily pay e.g. 10$ (rather than 1$) entrance fee to the island, if it is to maintain the infrastructure, monuments.
=> I hope to visit the island in May this year, and in fact was aiming to walk the N-S and other paths, and stay overnight.. now hearing all problems either skip all, or just do an organized days-tour so as to be sure what is happening.. Of course this is much less beneficial to the island people, whether from N of S. !!
I find it rather difficult to find which boats go when and where… different sites (probably set up at different date …) report different things.. boats only going to S, regular boats going to N, … only private boats going back from S to Copa… thus any planning seems impossible, hence ‘ condamned’ to take an organized tour !! (which is typically what I do NOT like)..
Kathy Mendizabal says
We had a wonderful time on Isla Del Sol in March 2019. We were a group of 10 and stayed 1 night at Tacana Lodge which is by the water’s edge. I would highly recommend staying here. The boat dropped us off right at the lodge so there were no steps to climb. The owners were wonderful and provided us with the best food. The rooms were clean and we had a beautiful view of the lake. They took us by boat to the Inca Ruins and then took us to the village. We made the hike to the top. It took us 4 hours total to get back to The Lodge but it was worth it. The views were amazing. We used sun block but still got sun burned. It was a hard hike and we were short of breath so we took frequent stops. This was not a bad thing because everywhere you looked was beautiful. We should have taken a flashlight with us. It was getting dark and our path was a little scary at times going back. We were treated to a delicious dinner of trout and chicken when we got back. Unfortunately it was a cloudy night so we couldn’t see the stars. My only regret was not staying a second night. We all felt such peace and tranquility as soon as we reached the island. This was our 1st family trip to Bolivia. My husband was born in Oruro and had not been back in 25 years. We are already planning our next trip. #porfinbolivia
John Widmer says
Sounds like a great experience! Isla del Sol is really such a special place. Reading your account just fueled my wanderlust to make it back to this beautiful island. So glad to hear you had such a great family trip. Thank you for sharing! 🙂
Catherine says
I enjoyed reading your review of Isla del Sol. We were there last October and really enjoyed it. What we particularly noticed and enjoyed were the fabulous flowers, considering how bleak the rest of Peru was where we had just come from! I wish we had stayed a bit longer as our overnight stay felt rushed regardless. It’s just nice to take time out to relax and do nothing sometimes at a new location! We also went to Las Velas, and the meal took forever. I had a veggie option, but my partner went for the beef lasagne. Unfortunately, my partner was so ill the next day, i won’t go into details, but you can just imagine. The only thing we had different was the meal at las velas, which made me think that maybe the meat hadn’t cooked properly. The chef was all alone and it being so dark in there using just a miner’s light on his head to see, how could he tell if the meal was cooked properly or not? Anyway, aside from that, my partner also took a tumble down the hillside as we tried to find the connecting track from the lookout point to get down to see pilko kaina. We made it of course, but not without my partner causing some serious scar damage to his leg. Oh well, it’s all part of the experience! A lovely island, lovely sunsets, beautiful views. We stayed at the YMCA hostel and it was great. Private room with bathroom and great views. We were able to leave our bags there whilst we wandered the island before going back to Copacabana. If I could go there again, I would! and for at least a couple of days, just to relax and take it all in 🙂
John Widmer says
Thanks for the feedback about your trip! Sorry to hear about the food poisoning and the tumble down the mountain, but sounds it sounds like you were able to have a positive experience on this beautiful island despite the setbacks. Your description about Las Velas sounds bang-on what we experienced too, minus the stomach trouble. We wanna go back to Isla del Sol too! 🙂
marc says
we had dinner in Las Velas 2 weeks ago. Yes it was good, but to be honest, to us and to the majority of the people in the restaurant, it was NOT worth the waiting. We waited exactly 2h20′ for our food – 1 plate. And we were the first to be served. We were able to order a drink at the beginning, but afterwards nothing more. The chef was all alone and I have the impression he came in together with us (everyone enters one sunset finishes) Towards the end of the waiting, you saw tiredness and people bored on every table. 1 girl was lying with the head on the table. What strucks me most: everyone took the same dish: trout in papillot – the same dish he is preparing since years. Wonder what would have happened in case people would have ordered more divers meals (there are not many, but still > 5 choices). You know you’ll have to wait when you eat here, but when after 2 hours still nothing appears the fun really is gone.
We adored Isla des sol, even with only Yumanu being accessible, but at Las velas we wouldn’t go again.
John Widmer says
Yeah, it was quite the wait for us during our visit too. The chef has a wife that helps him out and perhaps moves things along more quickly, but she wasn’t there during our visit either. So he was all by himself when we were there and we had a similarly very lengthy wait. Still, we enjoyed the experience and the trout. We got a bottle of wine that we slowly sipped on during the long wait. Isla del Sol seems to move at a slower pace overall, but Las Velas definitely takes that to a whole ‘nother level. 😉 Agree that there’s still so much to enjoy on Isla del Sol, even with the Yumani side being closed.
Pilar Paulmeno says
Excellent review and very accurate. We were there in mid-May, and Las Velas was closed that day. Since one in our party was sick, we did not attempt the hike north. We didn’t hear anything about the trail being closed, but it’s possible that they just don’t advertise it. I was aware that it had happened recently though. We stayed at the hostal Wara Uta, a short distance from El Sol. The hot water didn’t work that morning, but it was very comfortable, with a great view, and warm beds and soft towels. We had a family room with private bathroom which was definitely more expensive than El Sol, but still a good value. Even though we didn’t get to do much, the gorgeous views alone were worth the trip. We hired a burro to take our one carry-on bag and small backpacks up the steep hill. Well worth it!
John Widmer says
So glad to hear you had a nice time on Isla del Sol! Too bad about Las Velas being closed on the day of your visit. I suppose that just gives you a reason to come back one day! 😉 As for the North being closed, they don’t advertise it. We had to walk to the closed point before being turned around. Not sure if it is still closed, but the last I heard was that it was. Glad to hear about your stay at Wara Uta – we had considered staying there too but they were booked full during our visit. Sounds lovely though, aside from the lack of hot water. And great tip about the use of mules to haul your stuff up to the top. Thanks for chiming in about your experience!
Courtney Blacher says
I’ve never heard about Isla del Sol Bolivia before. And now I am in love with it!!
John Widmer says
We hadn’t heard of it either until we began researching our Bolivia travel plans. We hope you make it there one day – it’s a special place!
Megan Jerrard says
So awesome that you included Isla del Sol in your Bolivia itinerary! We visited but only as a day trip, would have loved to have spent overnight as there’s so much to do. We did a full day private tour from La Paz and included it as part of kayaking on Lake Titicaca. So much authenticity about the whole region, the villages, and the locals, and of course, the incredible untouched views 🙂
John Widmer says
Yes definitely so much authenticity, culture and those unspoiled views. Take us back! 🙂 Oooh, and kayaking around there sounds like it would be such a great experience on Isla del SOl. We didn’t see any kayaks around when we went. Perhaps they were on the North or Central side of the island? I would love to go kayaking around those beautiful calm waters!
Astrid Vinje says
I always thought of Bolivia as mountains, I forget that there are lakes and islands there too. Isla del Sol looks like a great opportunity to get back in touch with nature, especially with some of the rustic accommodations. I bet kids would enjoy it too.
John Widmer says
Yup, there’s a big ol’ lake right on the Northern western border of Bolivia! 😉 It is indeed a great place to unwind a connect with nature. And we did see some families with kids of varying ages. Although, probably best for kids that can walk/hike, rather than babies/toddlers. I saw one family that had to carry their toddler up the mountain to Yumani and it did not look very enjoyable, haha!
Yuen Mi says
Isla Del Sol looks amazing. Thank you for this super informative post. This looks like the kind of place I would love to explore fully. Maybe rent a vehicle and just go on a road trip throughout. Yumani so beautiful. You’ve just made me re-vamp my bucket list.
John Widmer says
You won’t be going on that road trip through Isla del Sol. There are no roads or cars on the island! That’s part of what makes it so special.
Jen Joslin says
Thank you for this super detailed and informative post about Isla Del Sol!! I loved your video too! This looks like the kind of place we would love to spend time in. It sounds like there’s lots to do, so one night would probably not even be enough. Sad to hear about the north-south conflict. Hope everything gets resolved peacefully there.
Jenn and Ed Coleman says
Isla del Sol looks like a magical place you would definitely want to stay over in to watch the stars and relax. Great tip about finding a secure hotel to leave the majority of your luggage at. I would hate to schlep my stuff up those stairs at that altitude.
John Widmer says
It is indeed magical! 🙂 And yes, definitely best to leave your stuff at a hotel on mainland. We saw others having a very difficult time carrying their big backups up from the shore. The altitude plus the steep grade are no joke!
Victorian says
Thank you for this!! We may be heading to Bolivia and this is the best guide I have seen! Very helpful tips for the night beforehand too!
John Widmer says
We hope you do make it to Bolivia – it’s such a fascinating country with so much to offer, like Isla del Sol! 😉 Let us know if you head that way.
Brianna Simmons says
I’d never heard of Isla del Sol but will add in a stop on my upcoming trip through Peru and Bolivia. Your pictures are stunning!
John Widmer says
Awesome! Yes, you must add it to your trip! We hadn’t’t heard of it either, before arriving to South America, and we were so glad to added it to our itinerary and stayed overnight there. We hope you have a great trip to Bolivia and Peru! We found it to be such a fun and fascinating region to travel through.
Mags says
That scenery is so gorgeous I think I would want to stay more than just a night! An island with llamas? I’m sold!
John Widmer says
Haha, yes the resident llamas wandering around the island are definitely a bonus. They are such characters! There were some that lived at our hostel and we loved waking up to seeing them right outside our window.
Kim-Ling says
Isla del Sol looks incredible! The sunset photos look stunning, and it’s a good tip to see it from the east and watch the glow reflect off Lake Titicaca. Isla del Sol really sounds like the perfect place to unwind, especially without cars or light pollution. I can just imagine the gorgeous astrophotography! Great post, with heaps of info, thank you!
John Widmer says
It is a great place to unwind! And yes, when we were looking for a spot to catch the sunset in the west, we were instead so surprised to see those beautiful mountains reveal themselves in the opposite direction. We almost didn’t even care about the sunset anymore, we were in such awe by the glowing snow-capped Andes! 🙂
Marion Halliday (Red Nomad OZ) says
Fantastic to find a place where you can tick off so many world exclusives! It blows my mind that the lake is nearly twice as high up as the highest point in Australia!! You’ve made it sound very appealing – especially as I’m a committed ‘slow traveller’! Thanks for the tour – hope to see the real thing one day!
John Widmer says
And this is somewhat of a contradiction for us because we often travel fast, but Isla del Sol is most definitely a destination to take it slow. Any committed slow travelers would easily slip into the tranquil island vibe way up there. And all those world exclusives – crazy right!
Nitin Khanna says
Great Post! It’s great to read about Isla del Sol Bolivia, I didn’t know about this place. Amazing View and I just updated my bucket list for travelling with Isla del Sol Bolivia to visit in future.
Thanks for such a useful information! I am always looking forward to new places to explore as much as I can.
John Widmer says
Thanks Nitin! It really is a beautiful place and the pictures we’ve posted here don’t even begin to do its beauty justice. We hope you do get a chance to make it out there sometime in the future and experience this magical island in Lake Titicaca! 🙂 Happy travels!